{"id":214632,"date":"2025-06-24T16:24:20","date_gmt":"2025-06-24T20:24:20","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/gardenandgun.com\/?p=214632"},"modified":"2025-06-24T16:25:41","modified_gmt":"2025-06-24T20:25:41","slug":"jessica-b-harriss-new-cookbook-untangles-the-strands-of-american-cuisine","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/gardenandgun.com\/articles\/jessica-b-harriss-new-cookbook-untangles-the-strands-of-american-cuisine","title":{"rendered":"\u00a0Jessica B. Harris\u2019s New Cookbook Untangles the Strands of American Cuisine"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>Jessica B. Harris needs no introduction. As a pioneering culinary historian (and <a href=\"https:\/\/gardenandgun.com\/author\/jessica-b-harris\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">longtime <em>G&amp;G <\/em>contributor<\/a>), Harris has penned an expansive canon of work over her forty-year career. <em><a href=\"https:\/\/bookshop.org\/a\/1939\/9780593139776\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Braided Heritage<\/a><\/em>, the most recent addition to her oeuvre, is a treasure trove of story-forward recipes, three of which she shared here: <a href=\"https:\/\/gardenandgun.com\/recipe\/brown-sugar-pound-cake\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">brown sugar pound cake<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/gardenandgun.com\/recipe\/tangy-pickled-peaches\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">pickled peaches<\/a>, and <a href=\"https:\/\/gardenandgun.com\/recipe\/southern-summer-succotash\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">summer succotash<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n<!-- Promo shortcode start --><div id=\"nlf-1c\" class=\"gg-promo topic-distilled big\"><div class=\"grid\"><div class=\"title\">Get Our Bourbon Newsletter!<\/div><div class=\"left\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/gardenandgun.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/promos\/bourbon-newsletter-big.jpg\" alt=\"glass of bourbon with ice\"><\/div><div class=\"right\"><form id=\"nlf-1\" method=\"post\" class=\"form\" action=\"https:\/\/gardenandgun.com\/newsletters\/\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"gg_form_submit\" value=\"nlf-1\"><div class=\"dek\">Coming soon: Distilled, our newsletter about the South\u2019s favorite spirit.<\/div><div class=\"action two-items\"><div class=\"input-left\"><input type=\"text\" name=\"email\" class=\"email-input\" value=\"\" placeholder=\"you@example.com\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"group_id\" value=\"151240180\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"shortcode_form\" value=\"nlf-1\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"subscription_99416\" value=\"on\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"prev_page_id\" value=\"214632\"><\/div><div class=\"gform_footer\"><button class=\"g-recaptcha button button-primary after-email\" data-sitekey=\"6Lc-hRkaAAAAAI84hbB81Jl48pGievR_C_UgHdnY\" data-callback=\"on_submit_nlf_1\" data-action=\"submit\">Sign Up<\/button><script>function on_submit_nlf_1(token) {document.getElementById(\"nlf-1\").submit();}<\/script><\/div><\/div><div class=\"captcha-terms\"><p>This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google <a href=\"https:\/\/policies.google.com\/privacy\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Privacy Policy<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/policies.google.com\/terms\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Terms of Service<\/a> apply.<\/p><\/div><\/form><\/div><\/div><\/div><!-- Promo shortcode end -->\n\n\n\n<p>The book weaves together tales and traditions from three cultures that are foundational to American cuisine: African, European, and Native American. Below, we chatted with Harris about why three is a magic number, the flexibility of tradition, and how she\u2019s spending her summer post\u2013book tour.<br><br><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>A strong historical narrative threads through <\/strong><strong><em>Braided Heritage<\/em><\/strong><strong>. What was the research process like?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>First of all, I was a culinary historian before it had a name. It\u2019s not an avocation. I\u2019m an academic, and you know, your profession forms your brain if you do it long enough\u2014you start thinking in certain ways because of what you do. The very first book I wrote, <em>Hot Stuff<\/em>, was a book about food with peppers and chilies from around the world, and rather than just go straight to the recipe, I started reading Columbus\u2019s diaries and Marco Polo\u2019s diaries. So it\u2019s always been the research that fascinates me as much, or maybe even more, than the recipes. The recipe simply becomes a locus for research.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I\u2019ve been writing about food since 1985, so little crumbs and snatches along the way have just become part of my general database. There are some things I\u2019ve learned but have never really been able to use that fit perfectly in here. So it\u2019s very cumulative. It allowed me to take a more in-depth look at the history of the place that I am from.<br><br><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>You begin your introduction by stating that \u201cthree is a magic number.\u201d Where did that concept originate, and why is it such an important theme in the book?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>At some point I gave a lecture called \u201cThree Is A Magic Number,\u201d and when I got off the podium, somebody said, \u201cI think that\u2019s a book.\u201d That is the genesis.<\/p><div id=\"div-gpt-ad-9849977\" class=\"ad-container in-line-ad mobile inContent\" data-ad-size-mapping=\"inContent\" data-ad-path=\"\/68000349\/in-between-modules\" data-ad-sizes=\"[ [336, 280], [300, 250], [300, 50] ]\" data-ad-channel=\"\" data-ad-type=\"In-between Modules\" data-page-terms=\"flagged\"><\/div>\n<div id=\"div-gpt-ad-1667577\" class=\"ad-container in-line-ad tablet inContent\" data-ad-size-mapping=\"inContent\" data-ad-path=\"\/68000349\/in-between-modules\" data-ad-sizes=\"[ [336, 280], [300, 250], [300, 50] ]\" data-ad-channel=\"\" data-ad-type=\"In-between Modules\" data-page-terms=\"flagged\"><\/div>\n<div id=\"div-gpt-ad-5428640\" class=\"ad-container in-line-ad desktop inContent\" data-ad-size-mapping=\"inContent\" data-ad-path=\"\/68000349\/in-between-modules\" data-ad-sizes=\"[ [336, 280], [300, 250], [300, 50] ]\" data-ad-channel=\"\" data-ad-type=\"In-between Modules\" data-page-terms=\"flagged\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n\n<p>I think the old motto of the United States is <em>E pluribus unum<\/em>\u2014out of many, one. It\u2019s certainly the case when we talk about American food. Take a classic American summer menu, for example. Maybe you\u2019ve got fried chicken\u2014well, the chicken is Old World. You may have a corn pudding of some sort, or corn on the cob\u2014the corn is New World. Maybe you finish it off with a slice of watermelon\u2014that\u2019s from Africa, Old World. So even the things we think of as the most basically \u201cAmerican\u201d are nuanced, and that power of three really shows up on the table.<br><br><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>You write about how so-called \u201ctraditional\u201d recipes are often the most flexible and subject to change because of how they\u2019re passed down. Can you recall an example of this in your home kitchen?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I can recall some of the absence of that! My mother was absolutely brilliant in the kitchen and had trained as a dietitian. She was one of those left-brained people who could bake from scratch without a recipe. Because of that, things <em>didn\u2019t<\/em> get passed on through the kitchen. Other things did\u2014I make a fair version of her fried chicken. It\u2019s hers, but also a little bit mine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Tradition is always a state of flux. There is no absolute, no \u201cit must be this way.\u201d That\u2019s one of the things that\u2019s so fascinating about cooking\u2014it varies. And it can vary in the hands of the same chef because they cook with different ingredients. I\u2019m on Martha\u2019s Vineyard cooking with the ingredients I can find here, but if I was cooking with the same ingredients as I would find them in New Orleans, it may give me two entirely different dishes. Maybe not radically different, but they would be nuanced, each a way of their place.<br><br><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>The profiles peppered throughout this book\u2014of chefs, authors, and tastemakers\u2014really add to that depth of tradition.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This book is certainly a collaborative work. I mean, my name is on it, but all of those folks are people I know personally, many of them dear friends for more than thirty or forty years. The fact that they were so generous with their time and their recipes gave kind of a quirky fun to things, because you hear different voices and you see different threads in the kitchen.<br><br><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p><div id=\"div-gpt-ad-9836776\" class=\"ad-container in-line-ad mobile inContent\" data-ad-size-mapping=\"inContent\" data-ad-path=\"\/68000349\/in-between-modules\" data-ad-sizes=\"[ [336, 280], [300, 250], [300, 50] ]\" data-ad-channel=\"\" data-ad-type=\"In-between Modules\" data-page-terms=\"flagged\"><\/div>\n<div id=\"div-gpt-ad-9321811\" class=\"ad-container in-line-ad tablet inContent\" data-ad-size-mapping=\"inContent\" data-ad-path=\"\/68000349\/in-between-modules\" data-ad-sizes=\"[ [336, 280], [300, 250], [300, 50] ]\" data-ad-channel=\"\" data-ad-type=\"In-between Modules\" data-page-terms=\"flagged\"><\/div>\n<div id=\"div-gpt-ad-5113616\" class=\"ad-container in-line-ad desktop inContent\" data-ad-size-mapping=\"inContent\" data-ad-path=\"\/68000349\/in-between-modules\" data-ad-sizes=\"[ [336, 280], [300, 250], [300, 50] ]\" data-ad-channel=\"\" data-ad-type=\"In-between Modules\" data-page-terms=\"flagged\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Where are you doing most of your cooking and writing these days?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>From May until October, I kind of roost on Martha\u2019s Vineyard. The first part of this summer is going to be given over to the care, feeding, and promotion of this book, and after that\u2026the rest of the summer is going to be called \u201cJessica rests.\u201d [<em>Laughs.<\/em>] Sitting\u2014I have a chair that I call Command Central, where I write sometimes\u2014surrounded by books, reading, watching the venerable oak tree in front of the house, is quite relaxing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I actually haven\u2019t been up here long enough to really hunker down and do any cooking but when I get back at the end of June, I will do my plant rounds and all of that stuff. There are plenty of farmers\u2019 markets here, and I\u2019m a regular, so they know I\u2019m showing up. It\u2019s one of my happy places on the island.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><br><br><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Garden &amp; Gun<em>&nbsp;has an affiliate partnership with&nbsp;<\/em><a href=\"https:\/\/bookshop.org\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><em>bookshop.org<\/em><\/a><em>&nbsp;and may receive a portion of sales when a reader clicks to buy a book.<\/em><br><\/p>\n<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p><i>G&#038;G<\/i> caught up with the <i>Braided Heritage<\/i> author to discuss the fluidity of cooking traditions, the power of the number three, and her summertime happy place <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":93,"featured_media":214633,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"apple_news_api_created_at":"2025-06-24T20:24:33Z","apple_news_api_id":"3dced140-837e-4403-9f9e-84ba56a9cd8b","apple_news_api_modified_at":"2025-06-24T20:25:40Z","apple_news_api_revision":"AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA==","apple_news_api_share_url":"https:\/\/apple.news\/APc7RQIN-RAOfnoS6VqnNiw","apple_news_cover_media_provider":"image","apple_news_coverimage":0,"apple_news_coverimage_caption":"","apple_news_cover_video_id":0,"apple_news_cover_video_url":"","apple_news_cover_embedwebvideo_url":"","apple_news_is_hidden":"","apple_news_is_paid":"","apple_news_is_preview":"","apple_news_is_sponsored":"","apple_news_maturity_rating":"","apple_news_metadata":"\"\"","apple_news_pullquote":"","apple_news_pullquote_position":"","apple_news_slug":"","apple_news_sections":[],"apple_news_suppress_video_url":false,"apple_news_use_image_component":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[2399,1780],"tags":[74,29991,29711,29623,30280],"authors":[30499],"issue":[],"recipe-type":[],"class_list":["post-214632","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-books","category-food-and-drink","tag-books","tag-culture","tag-food-drink","tag-history","tag-whats-new","authors-grace-roberts"],"acf":[],"apple_news_notices":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v25.4 (Yoast SEO v25.4) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>\u00a0Jessica B. 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Harris\u2019s New Cookbook Untangles the Strands of American Cuisine\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"G&amp;G caught up with the Braided Heritage author to discuss the fluidity of cooking traditions, the power of the number three, and her summertime happy place\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/gardenandgun.com\/articles\/jessica-b-harriss-new-cookbook-untangles-the-strands-of-american-cuisine\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Garden &amp; Gun\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/gardenandgun\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2025-06-24T20:24:20+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2025-06-24T20:25:41+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/gardenandgun.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/GABRI-COLLAGE-PAGE-12-1600x982.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"1600\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"982\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Gabriela Gomez-Misserian\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:creator\" content=\"@gardenandgun\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:site\" content=\"@gardenandgun\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/gardenandgun.com\/articles\/jessica-b-harriss-new-cookbook-untangles-the-strands-of-american-cuisine\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/gardenandgun.com\/articles\/jessica-b-harriss-new-cookbook-untangles-the-strands-of-american-cuisine\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Gabriela Gomez-Misserian\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/gardenandgun.com\/#\/schema\/person\/e6cca540eec31439cf98cf9427370a13\"},\"headline\":\"\u00a0Jessica B. 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