{"id":214124,"date":"2025-06-11T15:41:31","date_gmt":"2025-06-11T19:41:31","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/gardenandgun.com\/?p=214124"},"modified":"2025-06-26T15:06:27","modified_gmt":"2025-06-26T19:06:27","slug":"a-new-book-mines-georgias-oldest-cookbooks-for-forgotten-slices-of-history","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/gardenandgun.com\/articles\/a-new-book-mines-georgias-oldest-cookbooks-for-forgotten-slices-of-history","title":{"rendered":"A New Book Mines Georgia\u2019s Oldest Cookbooks for Forgotten Slices of History"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>Anyone who holds a creased and stained recipe handed down from a grandparent or favorite aunt can feel its connection to family and history. Valerie J. Frey, a foodways researcher based in Athens, Georgia, takes that connection deeper and wider in her new book, <em><a href=\"https:\/\/bookshop.org\/a\/1939\/9780820367965\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Georgia\u2019s Historical Recipes<\/a><\/em>, which spans the state\u2019s culinary evolution from the colonial era to World War II. Frey dove into tattered community cookbooks and faded newspapers and surfaced with illuminating stories and throwback kitchen tips that might be worth revisiting. She shares some of them here.<\/p>\n\n\n<!-- Promo shortcode start --><div id=\"nlf-1c\" class=\"gg-promo topic-distilled big\"><div class=\"grid\"><div class=\"title\">Get Our Bourbon Newsletter!<\/div><div class=\"left\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/gardenandgun.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/promos\/bourbon-newsletter-big.jpg\" alt=\"glass of bourbon with ice\"><\/div><div class=\"right\"><form id=\"nlf-1\" method=\"post\" class=\"form\" action=\"https:\/\/gardenandgun.com\/newsletters\/\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"gg_form_submit\" value=\"nlf-1\"><div class=\"dek\">Coming soon: Distilled, our newsletter about the South\u2019s favorite spirit.<\/div><div class=\"action two-items\"><div class=\"input-left\"><input type=\"text\" name=\"email\" class=\"email-input\" value=\"\" placeholder=\"you@example.com\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"group_id\" value=\"151240180\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"shortcode_form\" value=\"nlf-1\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"subscription_99416\" value=\"on\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"prev_page_id\" value=\"214124\"><\/div><div class=\"gform_footer\"><button class=\"g-recaptcha button button-primary after-email\" data-sitekey=\"6Lc-hRkaAAAAAI84hbB81Jl48pGievR_C_UgHdnY\" data-callback=\"on_submit_nlf_1\" data-action=\"submit\">Sign Up<\/button><script>function on_submit_nlf_1(token) {document.getElementById(\"nlf-1\").submit();}<\/script><\/div><\/div><div class=\"captcha-terms\"><p>This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google <a href=\"https:\/\/policies.google.com\/privacy\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Privacy Policy<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/policies.google.com\/terms\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Terms of Service<\/a> apply.<\/p><\/div><\/form><\/div><\/div><\/div><!-- Promo shortcode end -->\n\n\n\n<p><br><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>How did you find most of the material you catalogued in <\/strong><strong><em>Georgia\u2019s Historical Recipes<\/em><\/strong><strong>?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>As an archivist I know how to do research, which is helpful. But some of it was serendipitous\u2014like being in an antique shop and coming across <em>The New Annie Dennis Cookbook<\/em>, a 1915 paperback I\u2019d somehow never heard of. Turns out Dennis was kind of the Martha Stewart of Atlanta in her day. Other people and groups might put out one cookbook in that era, but she turned it into a career. Her brother worked for a publishing house, so she had that connection, but she was also a pretty big self-promoter. She cooked at the Bell House, a prestigious boarding house for bachelors where even the mayor lived. She ran newspaper ads for \u201clady agents\u201d who would help sell her cookbooks, and would set up a booth at exhibitions. She also received testimonials from women\u2019s clubs and early female journalists. They were in cahoots, making connections and lifting each other up. Apparently Dennis had lots of marriage proposals and turned them all down\u2014she had a good thing going and didn\u2019t want that to change.<br><br><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>How vital were community cookbooks to your research?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>They are very important. We know that a lot of publishing took place in cities, but cookbooks from smaller communities really pick up the echoes of what was going on in other places, especially with women, because they didn\u2019t always have a foot in the public sphere. Georgia\u2019s first one was put out in 1880 by the Second Presbyterian Church in Augusta, a community coming together because it needed to raise money to pay for their church. Interestingly, the Presbyterians really had a bead on community cookbooks until about the turn of the century before other groups got in on it. I think a lot of people with family roots in Georgia have no idea that their great-grandmothers put recipes into these cookbooks.<br><br><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Did you encounter food fads, like how people these days have decided they want matcha in everything?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Believe it or not, celery was a craze in the Gilded Age. If you invited guests over, there would be a nice celery vase to display cut celery so people could pull out a stalk.<br><br><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Did you notice changes to recipes when major innovations were introduced, like iceboxes?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Absolutely. In the 1850s most recipes might call for two ingredients not readily found on the farm. By the turn of the century, recipes often called for brand-name ingredients such as Fleischmann\u2019s yeast and Cox\u2019s gelatin. By 1920 there was a recipe calling for canned peaches\u2014in Georgia!<br><br><\/p><div id=\"div-gpt-ad-9188204\" class=\"ad-container in-line-ad mobile inContent\" data-ad-size-mapping=\"inContent\" data-ad-path=\"\/68000349\/in-between-modules\" data-ad-sizes=\"[ [336, 280], [300, 250], [300, 50] ]\" data-ad-channel=\"\" data-ad-type=\"In-between Modules\" data-page-terms=\"flagged\"><\/div>\n<div id=\"div-gpt-ad-1390963\" class=\"ad-container in-line-ad tablet inContent\" data-ad-size-mapping=\"inContent\" data-ad-path=\"\/68000349\/in-between-modules\" data-ad-sizes=\"[ [336, 280], [300, 250], [300, 50] ]\" data-ad-channel=\"\" data-ad-type=\"In-between Modules\" data-page-terms=\"flagged\"><\/div>\n<div id=\"div-gpt-ad-5212707\" class=\"ad-container in-line-ad desktop inContent\" data-ad-size-mapping=\"inContent\" data-ad-path=\"\/68000349\/in-between-modules\" data-ad-sizes=\"[ [336, 280], [300, 250], [300, 50] ]\" data-ad-channel=\"\" data-ad-type=\"In-between Modules\" data-page-terms=\"flagged\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Did you personally test some of the bygone recipes?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I kept encountering recipes for jelly cake in old newspapers and discovered that bakeries also sold them for a long time. You bake just a little bit of batter in a lot of pie pans, with fine white sugar sifted over the tops, so that you end up with many thin, crisp layers. And then you spread jelly between the layers. It\u2019s really good if you use a tart jelly like blackberry, or lemon curd. It\u2019s pretty easy and makes a pretty cake. Now I take them to potlucks and people are like, \u201cWhat is that?\u201d<br><br><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Any epic fails?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ha! I tried a recipe for Mabel\u2019s Delicious Honey Cakes that caught my eye in a folder at the Georgia Historical Society\u2019s research center in Savannah, collected from the historic Green-Meldrim House just four blocks away. In the oven, the top formed a crust almost immediately while the batter below was still barely warm. Then I got a whiff of burning honey. I covered the pan with foil, but the whole thing turned into lava and flowed out everywhere. I still don\u2019t know what I did wrong. It set off the smoke alarm.<br><br><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Are there things modern cooks can learn from our forerunners in the kitchen?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Some techniques, but especially flavor combinations and spice mixes. It\u2019s fascinating to see what fruits and spices got put together to create a flavor profile we\u2019ve now forgotten about. They\u2019re waiting for us in these cookbooks.<br><br><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<blockquote class=\"wp-block-quote is-layout-flow wp-block-quote-is-layout-flow\">\n<p><strong>A RECIPE FOR ORANGE DROPS<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n<p>From <em>The Southern Housekeeper: A Book of Tested Recipes<\/em>, published by Atlanta\u2019s Central Presbyterian Church, 1898<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1100\" height=\"960\" src=\"https:\/\/gardenandgun.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/OrangeCandy-credit-Valerie-Frey-1100x960.jpeg\" alt=\"A bowl of orange candy\" class=\"wp-image-214126\" srcset=\"https:\/\/gardenandgun.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/OrangeCandy-credit-Valerie-Frey-1100x960.jpeg 1100w, https:\/\/gardenandgun.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/OrangeCandy-credit-Valerie-Frey-300x262.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/gardenandgun.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/OrangeCandy-credit-Valerie-Frey-768x670.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/gardenandgun.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/OrangeCandy-credit-Valerie-Frey-1375x1200.jpeg 1375w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1100px) 100vw, 1100px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">A bowl of orange drops. <\/figcaption><figcaption class=\"image-credit\" style=\"text-align:right;\">photo: Valerie Frey<\/figcaption><div class=\"caption\">A bowl of orange drops. <\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Grate the rind of one orange and squeeze out the juice, taking care to remove the seeds. Add to this a pinch of tartaric acid; stir in confectioner\u2019s sugar until it is stiff enough to form into balls. This is a delicious candy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>Frey\u2019s notes: An average orange yields 4 to 5 tablespoons of juice. For each tablespoon of juice you\u2019ll need at least 1 cup of powdered sugar. Granulated citric acid derived from citrus fruits can be used in place of grape-derived tartaric acid, but be sure it is labeled \u201cfood-grade.\u201d Because tart candy is a cultural norm for modern kids, I use up to a teaspoon of acid. An electric stand mixer is the fast tool for this recipe, but hands or a potato masher is the old-fashioned way.<\/em><\/p><div id=\"div-gpt-ad-1741761\" class=\"ad-container in-line-ad mobile inContent\" data-ad-size-mapping=\"inContent\" data-ad-path=\"\/68000349\/in-between-modules\" data-ad-sizes=\"[ [336, 280], [300, 250], [300, 50] ]\" data-ad-channel=\"\" data-ad-type=\"In-between Modules\" data-page-terms=\"flagged\"><\/div>\n<div id=\"div-gpt-ad-5080413\" class=\"ad-container in-line-ad tablet inContent\" data-ad-size-mapping=\"inContent\" data-ad-path=\"\/68000349\/in-between-modules\" data-ad-sizes=\"[ [336, 280], [300, 250], [300, 50] ]\" data-ad-channel=\"\" data-ad-type=\"In-between Modules\" data-page-terms=\"flagged\"><\/div>\n<div id=\"div-gpt-ad-3082713\" class=\"ad-container in-line-ad desktop inContent\" data-ad-size-mapping=\"inContent\" data-ad-path=\"\/68000349\/in-between-modules\" data-ad-sizes=\"[ [336, 280], [300, 250], [300, 50] ]\" data-ad-channel=\"\" data-ad-type=\"In-between Modules\" data-page-terms=\"flagged\"><\/div>\n\n<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Atlanta\u2019s Victorian-era Martha Stewart, the surprising vegetable on display at every Gilded Age party, an old-school recipe for orange candy, and more tasty tidbits from <i>Georgia\u2019s Historical Recipes<\/i><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":93,"featured_media":214125,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"apple_news_api_created_at":"2025-06-11T19:41:37Z","apple_news_api_id":"b7e206bb-8309-4fdc-a3a6-24bedbf15bbb","apple_news_api_modified_at":"2025-06-11T19:41:37Z","apple_news_api_revision":"AAAAAAAAAAD\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/w==","apple_news_api_share_url":"https:\/\/apple.news\/At-IGu4MJT9yjpiS-2_Fbuw","apple_news_cover_media_provider":"image","apple_news_coverimage":0,"apple_news_coverimage_caption":"","apple_news_cover_video_id":0,"apple_news_cover_video_url":"","apple_news_cover_embedwebvideo_url":"","apple_news_is_hidden":"","apple_news_is_paid":"","apple_news_is_preview":"","apple_news_is_sponsored":"","apple_news_maturity_rating":"","apple_news_metadata":"\"\"","apple_news_pullquote":"","apple_news_pullquote_position":"","apple_news_slug":"","apple_news_sections":[],"apple_news_suppress_video_url":false,"apple_news_use_image_component":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1784,2399,1780],"tags":[74,29991,29711,29623,30280],"authors":[1977],"issue":[],"recipe-type":[],"class_list":["post-214124","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-arts-and-culture","category-books","category-food-and-drink","tag-books","tag-culture","tag-food-drink","tag-history","tag-whats-new","authors-steve-russell"],"acf":[],"apple_news_notices":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v25.4 (Yoast SEO v25.4) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>A New Book Mines Georgia\u2019s Oldest Cookbooks for Forgotten Slices of History &#8211; 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